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Post by Deleted on Aug 4, 2021 9:50:31 GMT
Must be in immaculate condition & absolutely all original, No mods. Has to have either the black or Silver bias control, no Green or Red. Silver mounting thread like the 'RB300' not Brass. Yeh im a fussy git
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2021 16:06:54 GMT
Are these arms like Gold dust or what? Gotta get one of these As soon as i can cos im one of those that gets bored with brainwaves & moves on LOL. I have the shortest patience span know to man
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Post by Westie on Aug 5, 2021 16:13:05 GMT
For the steel base and black or silver slider, they are a rarity. Some Michell badged ones have that combo. I don’t mind the green bias slider but the red is horrid.
Just a thought but would an rB300 work for you? They are more likely to come with Steel base and silver slider.
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Post by dsjr on Aug 5, 2021 17:13:32 GMT
I have to say I've never seen an RB250 that didn't have a brass pillar. I admit some early OEM arms had very badly set bearings (probably deliberately) but this changed, albeit twenty years ago now and all subsequent non-Rega decks I've worked on seemed to have comparable bearing performance and lack of slop.
You know, the three point mount of current models should be better than the single nut, as I was told by an engineer to do one of the three screws up and then bring the other two down just enough to prevent rocking - and no more... The later arm pipe has been re-worked, removing the last main vestiges of resonance. Personally, I *imagined* the latest arms seem to sound clearer, but obviously I haven't tried them on a variety of decks to confirm...
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2021 17:14:16 GMT
I would have an 'RB300' but the 'RB250' is a better arm imho. Its the tracking force dial thats the problem.
Dave: I totally dislike the three point mount, Looks horrid, more plastic & look terrible under the deck.
What im thinking is if i used a thick bespoke washer & the J.A Michell finger lock it would cover the Brass threat up completely?
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Post by dsjr on Aug 5, 2021 17:27:24 GMT
But it partially decouples the arm just a little from the mounting board. What's this nonsense about the 300 tracking force dial? All their top arms use it with absolutely no issues whatsoever and the improvements in these are finish and external cabling mostly as well as even tighter bearing tolerances which mean eff all to RB250 lovers who seem to like gobs of loctite inside...), so I'm happy in my mind the tracking force spring does nothing to mess with things (I use Dual decks anyway which use similar downforce adjustment methods and that had no negative aspects on the expensive MC's I've used in some of them including an OC9, MC30 Super and Koetsu Black, which I 'd still be using if a channel wire hadn't fractured near the coil).
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2021 17:29:43 GMT
I just see the sprung dial as a no no.
I use thin Nitrile Cork washer between arms bases & decks..
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2021 18:13:47 GMT
Ok ive bought a 'RB202' which is basically a 'RB250' with the three point mount that i so dislike. It has a silver REGA badge i just need to disguise the Red Bias control. Im fitting a new stub & weight so that puts pay to the red marker on the original Counterbalance weight. Im gonna have a cover collar made to make the underside look more neat when its fitted.
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Post by Westie on Aug 5, 2021 18:17:03 GMT
But it partially decouples the arm just a little from the mounting board. What's this nonsense about the 300 tracking force dial? All their top arms use it with absolutely no issues whatsoever and the improvements in these are finish and external cabling mostly as well as even tighter bearing tolerances which mean eff all to RB250 lovers who seem to like gobs of loctite inside...), so I'm happy in my mind the tracking force spring does nothing to mess with things (I use Dual decks anyway which use similar downforce adjustment methods and that had no negative aspects on the expensive MC's I've used in some of them including an OC9, MC30 Super and Koetsu Black, which I 'd still be using if a channel wire hadn't fractured near the coil). I agree it’s nonsense. At least I’ve not heard the 300 as worse than 250
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Post by Westie on Aug 5, 2021 18:18:41 GMT
I would have an 'RB300' but the 'RB250' is a better arm imho. Its the tracking force dial thats the problem. Dave: I totally dislike the three point mount, Looks horrid, more plastic & look terrible under the deck. What im thinking is if i used a thick bespoke washer & the J.A Michell finger lock it would cover the Brass threat up completely? Yeah I don’t like the look of the 3 point mount. I do think you can disguise it though.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2021 18:27:06 GMT
But it partially decouples the arm just a little from the mounting board. What's this nonsense about the 300 tracking force dial? All their top arms use it with absolutely no issues whatsoever and the improvements in these are finish and external cabling mostly as well as even tighter bearing tolerances which mean eff all to RB250 lovers who seem to like gobs of loctite inside...), so I'm happy in my mind the tracking force spring does nothing to mess with things (I use Dual decks anyway which use similar downforce adjustment methods and that had no negative aspects on the expensive MC's I've used in some of them including an OC9, MC30 Super and Koetsu Black, which I 'd still be using if a channel wire hadn't fractured near the coil). I agree it’s nonsense. At least I’ve not heard the 300 as worse than 250 At least the '250' actually applies down force
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2021 19:31:38 GMT
Thats what you end up with when you mount a three point fixed arm in an older deck, as you can see im not just being difficult, it's not acceptable for me how it looks. I shall have to have something made to cover the surrounding hole when i fit mine.
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'RB250'
Aug 6, 2021 9:39:55 GMT
via mobile
Post by mrkipling on Aug 6, 2021 9:39:55 GMT
The spring nonsense is just audiophile bollocks, which I thought you had no time for. I don't recall ever reading anyone losing sleep over the Ittok being spring-loaded. And it seems to be beyond the wit of those who see a problem - to do the obvious - not to engage it and use the counterweight to set the tracking weight. Hardly rocket science.
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Post by dsjr on Aug 6, 2021 10:41:41 GMT
With a 300 series arm and upwards, what you're actually doing is moving the position of the counterweight, so altering inertia over setting balance (spring at maximum) and backing off the spring to give tracking force (Rega did it differently to everyone else as they usually do).
I did it all better at the time by ordering the heavier tungsten counterweight and having it further forward on the rear stub when balancing out non Rega MM cartridges - this item was cheap then... To save money, Rega went to a more conventional counterweight which was too tall and narrow to start with, then currently, a smaller but thicker type...
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Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2021 14:01:57 GMT
Sorry no time for that Up force setting..
Decided to knock the 'RB202' deal on the head, im just making a rod for my own back with that three point fixing malarky, dont like it & have no intentions drilling this plinth to fit one.
So it's back to wanting an 'RB250' As the all silver jobbies is going to be hard i will go with Green fitting with Brass threaded mount that can be disguised with a Michell finger nut anyway. Ferk it ill even go for a Moth Variant if the price is cheap enough cos ive got a bit to spend on the arm yet with wire & fittings.
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